Mine is vented underneath, never had any problems

I bet you would get animals living under there when its cooler!

The can of worms if it is electric is moisture/humidity from the dryer. If it is gas co2 and moisture. If your home has no skirt and it is electric don't worry about it. if it does reasonable extend the hose to vent out of the skirt.

If you lived where it got heatless I could understand cause the warm dryer air blowing into the cold air would cause a mildew problem from the moisture it would think up, they sold kits where you could put the warm dryer air right into your basement to help warm it in winter months so I'm not certain where any danger comes in. You might want to go to your town hall and check your codes, you know how government works , they'll find a way to get a dime out of you. Cogent luck, it's 9 degrees here.

it will creat moister. why not vent it through the side of the peaceful. all equipment can be obtained at home depot or lowes

i can declaration the danger part.your lint trap does not catch all the lint.some is vented out and dryer lint ignites without even trying .it is a fire hazzard to vent underneath.

The two main factors in venting underneath are moisture from the vent creating an environment for molds and mildew to grow and the number two is an accumulation of lint that may cause the vent to become blocked and creating a possible fire hazard. Your options would be to cut through the wall and mount your vent that way or use an indoor venting system sold in most hardwares. If you keep the vent make a clean breast and regularly clean the lint screen and get a lint brush to clean out the pipe from there I don't assume you have anything to worry about with your current set up as long as you can get to the pipe underneath and check it for clogs once or twice a year.

Humidity,lent,and CRITTERS.The air that comes out of a dryer is very irascible and needs somewhere to escape.If underneath a t-house it gets trapped and causes moisture.the only thing protecting the drub is the insulation.over time the elements will start to REEK havov underneath.The lent is a FIRE danger and will fascinate to the insulation and make it very DANGEROUS. The mild winters will put out a WELCOME HOME sign to all the CRITTERS giving them a satisfactory, warm place to cuddle-up. Believe me, those CRITTERS will find a way in. I hope this has been usefull information.

I'm valid guessing here, but the dryer produces humidity, and lint. Can you imagine all that sticky lint underneath your home? I would ponder the humidity would mess with the wood and the electrical too. Mine is vented outside and I see the gack it sends out. BTW, I live in a agile too. Wishing you the best of luck and hopefully some more useful information than mine.

The biggest can of worms with dryer lint is its combustibility.

"I read an article about fire starting, where Colleen O'Brien writes of how dryer lint makes a wonderful sparker in adverse conditions. She says to stuff a film canister with all the lint you can squeeze in (several dryer loads can be stuffed in if you try); then fill a instant canister with vaseline-smeared cotton balls. She writes that lighting the lint, even in the worst wet conditions, will care for enough heat to start the cotton balls...which will flare long enough for your kindling to catch. I've tried this in the abject soggyness of Northern Minnesota, and can vouch for its effectiveness."

Lint builds up in the exhaust conveyor and inside the dryer, it slows the air flow through the dryer and out the exhaust. Lint accumulation and reduced airflow are conditions that fodder on one another. These conditions cause early motor burnout and heating element overload which can cause strict heat and Fire!Further, the slower air movement causes more lint to collect on the inside of the dryer,usually around the heating coil,and backside of the drum. The lint gathers on the motor,electrical connections clandestine the dryer acting as an insulator, reducing the motors ability to cool the windings causing Heat load (FireHazard!).

Lint, the annoying byproduct of drying clothes, is also a fire hazard. That's right - excess lint can ignite. Mostly such a fire starts after reduced airflow in the ventilation system causes lint buildup and overheating. The Consumer Output Safety Commission estimates 16,700 dryer fires occurred in 1997 (latest available statistics from CPSC). Of these fires, the commission reports 30 deaths and 430 injuries.

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Enough of the warnings. You paucity to install a proper dryer vent.

Venting a clothes dryer to the outside isn't an option - it's a requirement. An unvented dryer puts all kinds of fibers and lint into the air in the assembly that will not only accumulate and make a heck of a mess over time, but can cause respiratory and breathing problems for the occupants. Even more well-connected, the hot air in the dryer (as a result of combustion) may contain gasses such as carbon monoxide that are extremely hazardous. These need to be vented to the exterior.

Luckily, installing a dryer vent is a pretty straightforward job. As long as you can measure accurately and use a power drill or jig saw, you can connect your own dryer vent.

What you'll need:

Power drill
Hole saw
Tape measure
4 inch rigid area metal pipe
Dryer vent
Caulking gun and silicon caulking
Foil tape
Screwdriver and wood screws
Ladder (perchance)

Determining where the vent will go

The first thing to do is figure out where you want your dryer vent to be placed. If your dryer is in the basement, you want to drill through the wooden sill layer that sits on your foundation.

If your dryer is on the main or second floor, you will need to determine where you can cut a hole through the wall. When you have in mind you've found the proper location, drill a small pilot hole and insert wire cover hanger bent at 90 degrees and spin it around. If the hanger doesn't hit anything inside the stockade drive crazy, your location is fine; however, if it hits something in the wall you'll need to find another location.

Check the vent locations from the skin as well. Do this by measuring (on the inside) from the corner of the foundation or even a window to your chosen spot, and then go outside and use the same measurement to guarantee that your location is OK. You don't want to be running into any existing shrubbery or even gate posts.

Installing the Vent

Once you've established where your dryer vent is affluent, drill a small pilot hole from the inside. Go outside, and using a 4-inch hole saw, cut the depression for the dryer vent pipe. You can use a smaller hole saw and a saber saw to cut the hole, just be sure to mark the location of the vent whistle with the pilot hole in its center.

Install the vent hood or shroud to the side of your house using rust intransigent wood screws, and caulk all around the pipe and the shroud. The vent hood should have a piece of pipe about 12" yearn already attached to it.

On the inside, attach a 90-degree elbow to the protruding end of the vent pipe, and then run sections of vent warble back to your dryer. At the dryer, you'll need to attach an elbow where the exhaust comes out of the dryer and then connect the vent pipe to the elbow.

Your dryer vent is now basically finished. All that's left side is to slide the dryer back into position and make sure it's level.

Final Thoughts

Use large hose clamps to endear the solid vent pipes to the elbows, and use foil tape to seal the joints between the pipe sections. Never use contour sheet metal screws to join the sections together - they will protrude into the pipe, where they will catch and hold lint that long run could block the vent pipe.

One final word. Flexible plastic hoses were commonly used for venting dryers in the recent. However, these hoses aren't strong enough to support their own weight, so they will sag, and lint will collect in the low spots, creating a workable fire hazard. Don't use them.

You will probably not have any problem at all, considering where you live but the standard response from anyone in the dryer business is not to vent into the crawlspace because of moisture buildup --something that you certainly won't have a riddle with in your climate. You will get a lot of lint under there, though.

In climates where moisture buildup is a problem, certainly one would not want to dump all of that moisture under the perplex of the house.

Have you ever stood by the vent when the dryer is competition? It gets hot. Blowing hot air under the trailer could potentially ignite something and start a fire. Sometimes lint is also blown out and if it should accumulate and then allure on fire I am sure you can understand the dangers of a trailer on fire. They burn quickly.

Depending on the layout of the trailer and where absolutely the laundry is being done will determine how you can vent it out. There are several options but without knowing the layout I couldn't suggest anything.