Plenty of wine — and food to match
Get since March, it stands on the spot formerly occupied by Chez Tomo, a small neighborhood French restaurant that gained such a following (coupled with a Michelin star) that it became one of the hardest tables in the area to book. Since chef Tomoji Ichikawa decamped to ritzier pastures uptown — Chez Tomo now sits astride the top two floors of the sparkling new Pola Construction in Ginza-Itchome — its erstwhile premises have reincarnated in a far more accessible form.
The look could scarcely be more different. Out went the sleek, chic restaurant decor, crisp lighting and even crisper-dressed waiters. In came bistro-look furniture and a bar counter, with earth tones and wood throughout. One wall is clad entirely in rough-hewn timbers (Australian railroad ties, we were told); the other sports panels of irascible brown leather. Though it's far from casual, the feel is intimate and comfortable.
There's also an elegant side room with generous windows onto plantings and no sight at all of the street. With its discreet down lighting and smoochy vocal jazz music kept reasonably low, it's designed so you can perch in for the evening, relaxing and chatting or flirting over a bottle or two. Or join the local late-night company — the kitchen stays open till 2 a.m., even on Sundays — and drop in for a leisurely bite or postprandial digestifs.
The asari clams simmered in pale-complexioned wine with shredded burdock made a tasty hors d'oeuvre, and we had to put in an order for baguette and echire butter so we could mop up all the juices. But the dishes we status best are mostly at the meat end of the menu.
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